Bernardo Buontalenti

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Bernardo Buontalenti
1536-1608
Standing Woman in Costume, and Separate Study for Her Headdress
1589
Pen and brown ink, with brown wash, over black chalk, on paper.
9 5/8 x 6 1/2 inches (246 x 166 mm)
Gift of Mrs. Donald M. Oenslager, 1982.
1982.75:171
Description: 

Chief architect and engineer to the Medici court at the time of Francesco I de’ Medici (Grand Duke from 1574 to 1587), Buontalenti also held the post of festival designer from 1570 to 1608. He is known to have designed the costumes for the intermezzi, or interludes, of the commedia La Pellegrina, performed on 2 May 1589 in the Teatro Mediceo in the Uffizi. The theatrical performance was part of the month-long celebration on the occasion of the marriage of Francesco’s younger brother, later Grand Duke Ferdinand I de’ Medici, to Christina of Lorraine. The philosophical concept for the comedy and its intermezzi—the latter based on fantastic, mythological and cosmological themes, in which music, dance and scenic effects were combined—was devised by the aristocratic philosopher Giovanni de’ Bardi. Forty-five female costumes were used in the first intermezzo alone.

It seems quite likely that the present drawing is a costume design for one such intermezzo. The drawing can be compared to several costume designs for intermezzi by Buontalenti at the Biblioteca Nazionale in Florence (Inv. Palat. CB3.53). A drawing at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, contains two similar elaborate costume designs for Two Female Dancers (E. 614-1936).

Notes: 

Watermark: none.
This costume design is strikingly similar to many of those in Buontalenti's scene designs for the Intermezzi of "La Pellegrina" performed in the Uffizi 2 May, 1589 on the occasion of the nuptials of the Grand Duke Ferdinand and Christine of Lorraine.

Inscription: 

Inscribed on verso, at upper left, in black chalk, "Colnaghi"; at upper right, in black chalk, "Suo Dis 48"; in lower right corner, in black chalk, illegible inscription; over this, in black chalk, "7084".

Provenance: 
P. & D. Colnaghi and Co., London in 1960 (check dealer's cat. 1960, no. 72, repr., as Buontalenti, Two Studies o fa Lady facing right ); Charles E. Slatkin Gallery, New York, from whom purchased in 1961 by Donald Oenslager (1902-1975), New York for $241.75.
Associated names: 

Oenslager, Donald, 1902-1975, former owner.

Bibliography: 

London 1960, no. 72; Providence 1970, no. 106; Madison 1973, 86, no. 36.
Oenslager 1975, no. 12, repr.

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