a mountainous ramble
by D Wordsworth
sister to the poet.

November 1805

William and Mary returned from Parkhouse by the Patter-
dale road along with M^r and M^rs Clarkson, having
made a delightful excursion of three days. They had
engaged that W^m and I should go to Mr Luff’s
on Wednesday or Thursday if the weather conti-
nued favorable. It was not very promising on
Wednesday; but, having been fine for so long a time,
we thought that there would not be an entire change
all at once, therefore on a damp and gloomy morn-
ing we set forward, W^m on foot, and I upon the
pony with W.’s great coat slung over the saddle
crutch and a wallet containing our bundle of
“needments.” As we went along the mists gathered
upon the vallies, and it even rained all the
way to the head of Patterdale; but there was
never a drop [two words cancelled, illegible] upon my habit larger
than the smallest pearls upon a Lady’s ring.
The trees of the larger Island upon Rydale
Lake were of the most gorgeous colours, the
whole Island reflected in the water, as I remember
once in particular to have seen it with dear

Coleridge, when either he or William observed that
the rocky shore spotted and streaked with purplish
brown heath and its image in the water together
were like an immense catterpillar, such as when
we were children we used to call Woolly Boys,
from their hairy coats. I had been a little coward
-ly when we left home, fearing that heavy rains
might detain us at Patterdale; but as the mists
thickened our enjoyment encreased, and my hopes
grew bolder; and when we were at the top of
Kirkstone (though we could not see fifty yards
before us) we were as happy Travellers as ever
paced side by side on a holiday ramble. At
such a time and in such a place every scat-
-tered stone the size of one’s head becomes a com-
-panion: there is a fragment of an old wall at
the top of Kirkstone, which, magnified yet ob-
-scured as it was by the mist, was scarcely less
interesting to us when we cast our eyes upon it
than the view of a noble monument of anci-
-ent grandeur has been – yet this same pile
of stones we had never before observed. When
we had descended considerably the fields of Hartsop
below Brotherswater were first seen, like a Lake
coloured by the reflection of yellow clouds, I

mistook them for the water; but soon after we saw
the Lake itself gleaming faintly with a grey steely
brightness; then appeared the brown oaks, and the
birches of splendid colour, and, when we came still
nearer to the valley, the cottages under their tufts
of trees and the old Hall of Hartsop with its long
irregular front and elegant chimneys. We had
eaten our dinner under the shelter of a Sheep-fold
by the bridge at the foot of the mountain,
having tethered the pony at the entrance, where
it stood without one impatient beating of a
foot – I could not but love it for its meekness,
and indeed I thought we were selfish to enjoy
our meal so heartily while his poor jaws were
tethered by the curb bridle. We reached M^r
Luff’s about two hours before tea-time.
Thursday Nov^r 8^th

Incessant rain till eleven o’clock,
when it became fair, and W^m and I walked to
Blowick. Luff joined us by the way. The wind
was strong and drove the clouds forward along
the side of the hill above our heads; four or
five goats were bounding among the rocks;
the sheep moved about more quietly or cowered
in their sheltering places – the two storm-stiffened

black Yew Trees on the crag above Luff’s house were
striking objects, close under or seen through the
flying mists. I do not know what to say of
Blowick; for to attempt to describe the place
would be absurd when you for whom I write have
been there, or may go thither as soon as you like.
When we stood upon the naked Crag upon the Com-
-mon overlooking its ^x woods & bush-besprinkled fields,
the Lake, Clouds, and Mists were all in motion to
the sound of sweeping winds – the Church and Cottages
of Patterdale scarcely visible from the brightness
of the thin mist. Looking backwards toward
the Foot of the Water the scene less visionary –
Place Fell steady and bold as a lion – the whole
Lake driving down like a great river – waves
dancing round the small Islands. We walked
to the house; the Owner was salving sheep in
the barn – an appearance of poverty and decay
every where; – he asked us if we wanted to pur-
-chase the estate. We could not but stop fre-
-quently both in going and returning to look at
the exquisite beauty of the woods opposite. The
general colour of the trees was dark brown,
rather that of ripe hazel nuts; but towards

x N.B. The fields ^{& woods}^belonging to the Farm of Blowick.

the water there were yet beds of green, and, in some of
the hollow places in the highest part of the woods, the
trees were of a yellow colour, and, through the glittering
light, they looked like masses of clouds as you see
them gathered together in the West, and tinged with
the golden light of the sun. After dinner we walk
-ed with M^rs Luff up the Vale; I had never had an
idea of the extent and width of it in passing thro’
along the road on the other side. We walked along
the path which leads from house to house; two or
three times it took us through some of those copses
or groves that cover every little hillock in the mid-
-dle of the lower part of the Vale, making an
intricate and beautiful intermixture of lawn and
woodland. We left William to prolong his walk; and when
he came into the house he told us that he had pitched
upon the spot where he should like to build a house
better than in any other he had ^ever^yet seen. M^rs Luff went
with him by moonlight to view it. The Vale looked
as if it were filled with white light when the moon
when the moon had climbed up to the middle of the
sky; but long before we could see her face, while all
the eastern hills were a black shade, those on the
opposite side were almost as bright as snow.
M^rs Luff’s large white Dog lay in the moonshine
upon the round knoll under the old yew tree,
a beautiful and romantic image – the dark

Tree with its dark shadow, and the elegant creature
as fair as a Spirit.
Friday Nov 9^th

It rained till near ten o’clock, but
a little after that time, it being likely for a tolera-
-bly fine day, we packed up bread and cold meat, and,
with Luff’s servant to help to row, set forward in the
Boat. As we proceeded the day grew finer – clouds
and sunny gleams on the mountains. In a grand
Bay under Place Fell we saw three Fishermen with
a Boat dragging a net, and rowed up to them.
They had just brought the net ashore, and hun-
-dreds of fish were leaping in their prison. They
were all of one kind, what are called Skellies.
After we had left them the Fishermen continu-
-ed their work, a picturesque group under the
lofty and bare crags; the whole scene was very
grand, a raven croaking on the mountain above
our heads. – Landed at Sanwick – the man took
the Boat home, and we pursued our journey
towards the village along a beautiful summer
path, at first through a copse by the Lake
side, then through green fields – the Village and
Brook very pretty, shut out from mountains and
Lakes – it reminded me of Somersetshire – Passed
by Harry Hebson’s house – I longed to go in for
the sake of former times. W^m went up one side

of the Vale and we the other, and he joined us
after having crossed the one-arched bridge above the
Church – a beautiful view of the church with its
“bare ring of mossy wall” and single Yew Tree. At
the last house in the Vale we were kindly
greeted by the Master, who was sitting at the door
salving sheep – he invited us to go in and see a
room lately built by M^r Hazel for his accommo-
-dation at the yearly chace of red Deer in his
Forests at the head of these Dales; the room is fit-
-ted up in the sportsman’s style, with a single cup-
-board for bottles and glasses &c, some strong chairs, and
a large dining-table; and ornamented with the horns
of the stags caught at these Hunts for many years
back, with the length of the last race they ran
recorded under each. We ate our dinner here; the
good woman treated us with excellent butter and new
oat bread, and, after drinking some of Mr Hazel’s
strong Ale we were well prepared to face the
mountain, which we began to climb almost immedi-
-ately. Martindale divides itself into two dales
at the head. In one of these (that to the left)
there is no house to be seen, nor any building
but a cattle shed on the side of a hill which
is sprinkled over with wood, evidently the remains
of a Forest, formerly a very extensive one. At
the bottom of the other Valley is the house of which
I have spoken, and beyond the enclosures of this man’s

Farm there are no other. A few old trees remain, relicks
of the Forest, a little stream passes in serpentine wind-
-ings through the uncultivated valley, where many Cattle
were feeding – the Cattle of this country are generally
white or light-coloured; but those were mostly dark
brown or black, which made the scene resemble ma-
-ny parts of Scotland. When we sate on the hill-
-side, though we were well contented with the quiet
every-day sounds, the lowing of cattle, bleating of
sheep, and the very gentle murmuring of the valley
stream, yet we could not but think what a grand
effect the sound of the Bugle Horn would have
among these mountains. It is still heard once
a year at the Chace I have spoken of, a day
of festivity for all the Inhabitants of this Dis-
trict except the poor Deer, the most ancient
of them all. The ascent, even to the top of the
mountain, is very easy. When we had accomplish-
-ed it we had some exceedingly fine mountain
views, some of the mountains being resplendent
with sunshine, others partly hidden by clouds.
Ulswater was of a dazzling brightness bordered by
black hills – the plain beyond Penrith smooth
and bright, (or rather gleamy) as the sea or sea
Sands. Looked into Boar Dale above Sanwick,
deep and bare, a stream winding down it. After
having walked a considerable way on the tops of
the hills, came in view of Glenriddin and the

mountains above Grisdale. Luff then took us aside,
before we had begun to descend, to a small Ruin
which was formerly a Chapel or place of worship
where the Inhabitants of Martindale and Patterdale
were accustomed to meet on Sabbath days. There
are now no traces by which you could discover
that the Building had been different from a com-
-mon sheep-fold; the loose stones, and the few
which yet remain piled up are the same as
those which lie about on the mountain; but
the shape of the building, being oblong, is not
that of a common sheep-fold, and it stands East
and West. Whether it was ever consecrated ground
or not I know not; but the place may be kept
holy in the memory of some now living in Pat-
-terdale; for it was the means of preserving the
life of a poor old man last summer who, hav-
-ing gone up the mountain to gather peats, had
been overtaken by a storm, and could not
find his way down again. He happened to be
near the remains of the old Chapel, and, in
a corner of it, he contrived, by laying turf and
ling and stones from one wall to the other, to
make a shelter from the wind, and there he
lay all night. The Woman who had sent him
on his errand began to grow uneasy towards

night and the neighbours went out to seek him.
At that time the old Man had housed himself in
his nest, and he heard the voices of the men; but
could not make them hear, the wind being so loud,
and he was afraid to leave the spot least he
should not ^be^able to find it again, so he remained
there all night, and they returned to their homes
giving him up for lost; but the next morning the
same persons discovered him huddled up in the shetered
work. He was, at first, stupefied and unable to move;
but after he had eaten and drunk, and recollected
himself a little, he walked down the mountain, and did
not afterwards seem to have suffered. As we descend,
the Vale of Patterdale appears very simple and grand
with its two heads, Deep-dale, and Brotherswater or Hart
Hartsop. It is remarkable that two pairs of Bro-
-thers should have been drowned in that Lake. There
is a tradition, at least, that it took its name
from two who were drowned there many years
ago, and it is a fact that two others did meet
that melancholy fate about twenty years since.
It was upon a New-year’s Day. Their Mother had
sent them to thresh some corn, and they, probably
thinking it hard to be so tasked when all others
were keeping holiday, stole out to slide upon
the ice and were both drowned. A Neighbour who

who had seen them fall through the ice, though not near
enough to be certain, guessed who they were, and went
to the mother to enquire after her sons. She replied
that they were in the Barn threshing, “Nay,” said
the Man, they are not there, I am sure, and it
is not likely today.” The Woman went with
him to the Barn and the Boys were gone:
he was then confirmed, and told her that he believ-
-ed that they were drowned. It is said that they
were found locked in each other’s arms. I was
exceedingly tired when we reached home, owing
to the steepness and roughness of the peat track
by which we descended. I lay down on the
Sofa in M^rs Luff’s parlour and was asleep
in three minutes - - - - -. A fine moonlight
night – a thick fog in the middle of the
Vale, which disheartened William about the
situation of his house. Supped on some of the
Fish caught by the Fishermen at the foot
of Place Fell. We thought them excellent.
Saturday Novr 10^th

A beautiful morning. When
we were at breakfast we heard suddenly the tidings
of Lord Nelson’s death, and the Victory of Trafal-
-gar. Went to the Inn to make further inquiries –
I was shocked to hear that there had been great

rejoicings at Penrith. Returned by William’s rock and
grove, and were so much pleased with the spot that
W^m determined to buy it if possible, therefore we pre-
pared to set off to Park House that W^m might ap-
-ply to Thomas Wilkinson to negotiate for him
with the owner. We went down that side of the
Lake opposite to Stybarrow Crag: I dismounted,
and we sate some time under the same rock as
before, above Blowick. Owing to the brightness of
the sunshine the Church and other buildings were
even more concealed from us than by the mists
the other day. It had been a sharp frost in the
night, and the grass and trees were yet wet.
We observed the lemon-coloured leaves of the birches
in the wood below, as the wind turned them to the
sun, sparkle, or rather flash, like diamonds. The
day continued unclouded to the end. We had a de-
-lightful ride and walk, for it was both to both of
us. We led the horse under Place Fell, &, though
I mostly rode when the way was good, William
sometimes mounted to rest himself. Called at
Eusemere. Went by Bower Bank, intending to
ford the Emont at the Mill; but the pony would
not carry us both, so, after many attempts, I rode
over myself and a Girl followed me on another
horse to take back the pony to William. Very cold

before we reached Park House. Derwent ran to meet
us. Sate in the kitchen till the parlour fire was
lighted and then enjoyed a comfortable dish of tea.
After tea William went to Thomas Wilkinson’s and
to Brougham.
Monday, November 12^th

The morning being fine, we re-
-solved to go to Lowther, and accordingly Sara H.
mounted her Brother’s horse, I the pony, and
W^m and Miss Green set out on foot; but she
had not walked long before she took a seat behind
Sara. Crossed the Ford at Yanworth --- Found Tho-
-mas Wilkinson at work in one of his fields;
he chearfully laid down the spade and walked
by our side with William. We left our horses at
the Mill below Brougham, and walked through
the woods till we came to the Quarry, where the
road ends, the very place which has been the
Boundary of some of the happiest of the walks
of my youth. The sun did not shine when we were
there; and it was mid-day, therefore if it had shone,
the light could not have been the same; yet so
vividly did I call to mind those walks that
when I was in the wood I almost seemed to see
the same rich light of evening upon the trees
which I had seen in those happy hours. My heart

was full; and I could not but grieve that any stran-
-gers were with us. At this time the Path was scarce-
-ly traceable by the eye, all the ground being covered
with withered leaves, which I was very sorry for, W^m
having spoken of the beauty of it with so much de-
-light after he had been at Lowther in the summer.
Scrambled along under the Quarry; then came to T.
Wilkinson’s new path. We spent three delightful
hours by the River side and in the woods. Called at
Richard Bowman’s. We had a pleasant ride home;
Sara and I stopped at Red Hills while William
went over the Ford to T. Wilkinson’s. The House
untidy and uncomfortable – a little Girl never
ceased rocking the Baby in the cradle. We asked
if it would not sleep without rocking, and the
Mother said “No, for she was used to it” – Reached
Park House at ten o’clock – Joanna had waited
dinner and tea for us.
Tuesday, November 13^th

A very wet morning – no
hope of being able to return home. W^m read in
a Book lent him by Thomas Wilkinson. I
read Castle Rackrent. The day cleared at
one o’clock and after dinner, at a little before
three we set forward. The pony was bogged in
Tom’s field & I was obliged to dismount – Went
over Soulby Fell. Before we reached Ulswater the

sun shone, and only a few scattered clouds remained
on the hills except at the tops of the very highest –
the Lake perfectly calm – We had a delightful jour-
-ney. At the beginning of the first Park William
got upon the pony, and, betwixt a walk and a
run, I kept pace with him while he trotted to the
next gate; then I mounted again. We were joined
by two Travellers; like ourselves, with one white horse
between them. We went on in company till we
came near to Patterdale, trotting most of the
time. The Trees in Gowborough Park were very beau-
-tiful, the hawthorns leafless – their round heads cover-
-ed with rich red berries, and adorned with arches of
green brambles, and eglantine hung with glossy hips
– Many birches yet tricked out in full foliage of
bright yellow – Oaks brown or leafless – the smooth
branches of the ashes bare – most of the alders green
as in spring. I think I have more pleasure in look-
-ing at deer than any other animals, perhaps chief-
-ly from their living in a more natural state. At
the end of Gowborough Park, A large Troop of them
were moving slowly, or standing still, among the fern.
I was grieved when our companions startled them with
a whistle, disturbing a beautiful image of grave
simplicity and thoughtful enjoyment; for I could
have fancied that even they were partaking with
me a sensation of the solemnity of the closing day.

The sun had been set some time, though we could only
just perceive that the daylight was partly gone, and
the Lake was more brilliant than before. I dismount-
-ed again at Stybarrow Crag, and William rode till
we came almost to Glenriddin. Found the Luffs at
tea in the kitchen. After tea set out again; Luff
accompanied me on foot and William continued to
ride till we came to the foot of Brothers-water.
– A delightful evening – the Seven Stars close to
the hill tops in Patterdale – all the stars seemed
brighter than usual. The steeps were reflected in Bro-
-thers-water, and above the Lake appeared like enormous black
perpendicular walls. The torrents of Kirkstone had been
swoln by the rains, and filled the mountain Pass
with their roaring, which added greatly to the solem-
-nity of our walk – the stars in succession took their
stations on the mountain tops. Behind us, when we
had climbed very high we saw one light in the Vale
at a great distance, like a large star, a solitary
one, in the gloomy region – all the cheerfulness of
the scene was in the sky above us. Found Mary &
the children in bed – no fire – luckily William was
warm with walking, and I not cold; having wrap-
-ped myself up most carefully, & the night being mild.